Climbing shoes are notorious for being uncomfortable out of the box. Luckily, most rock climbing shoes will quickly become more comfy after being broken in, but the degree to which this occurs varies widely, and is dependent on several factors, including your unique foot shape and volume, the shoe size you select, how often you’re climbing, and the materials and design of the shoe.
Everyone is different. Your best friend might feel right at home in a pair of La Sportiva Skwamas, while you feel like your feet are being sucked inside a black hole when you wear them.
Breaking in climbing shoes isn’t a particularly complex process (it mostly just consists of going climbing) but this article will dive into everything there is to know, answer some of the more common questions about rock shoe fit and sizing, and offer some tips and tricks.
Breaking in a Climbing Shoe, Step by Step
There are three steps to break in climbing shoes: choose the correct model and size, put your shoes on for the first time, and go climbing in them!
Step 1: Choose & Size Climbing Shoes Properly
This is the most important step in the process. 99% of all climbing shoe fit problems can be solved by being more careful with your shoe selection. This isn’t just about size though, it’s also about the shoe model you choose in the first place.
That’s because not all climbing shoes are designed with all foot types in mind. Some models, like the Five Ten Hiangle, are ideal for individuals with narrow feet. Others are better for climbers with wider feet, higher arches, smaller heels… You name it.
This is less of a concern when searching for beginner climbing shoes, because most are neutral and designed to be friendly to all foot types. As you begin to purchase more advanced, specialized rock shoes though, sizing and fit becomes more fine-tuned. Before you buy a shoe, do research on it and read reviews and product info to see if that model is friendly for your foot shape.
The second part of this step is sizing. Not all climbing shoe brands recommend downsizing their shoes. Modern Evolv and Five Ten shoes, for example, are usually sized at street shoe size. La Sportiva and Scarpa shoes, meanwhile, are often downsized anywhere from a half size to two full sizes. Do your research on the brand of your climbing shoes and what they recommend regarding downsizing. The more you climb and purchase shoes, the more you’ll become comfortable with your own preferences regarding downsizing.
Step 2: Put Your New Shoes On
Now it’s time to put on your new shoes for the first time! Lace-up and Velcro closure shoes are usually pretty easy to get on, while slippers are sometimes pretty difficult. There are no tips and tricks here, just take it slow and make sure your toes and forefoot completely fill up the toe box before you try to slip the shoe over your heel.
If you’re having a ton of trouble, the “plastic bag method” can help.
The Plastic Bag Trick
Slip a plastic grocery bag over your foot and use it to reduce the friction between your foot and the shoe. Once the shoe is on, you’ll obviously be wearing a plastic bag as a sock… so this isn’t a method you can use every time, but it’s good for an initial slip-on to loosen the shoe up.
You can also tear off a small piece of plastic and put it over your heel to minimize friction there. Fitting your heel inside is usually the crux (hah) of putting on a climbing shoe, so sometimes just a tiny piece of plastic here works wonders.
Once you’ve put your climbing shoes on, wear them for five to ten minutes at home to break them in before hitting the climbing gym or crag. It’s best to wear them while sitting or laying down. Don’t walk around in them, as this wears out your rubber and can also flatten your shoe’s downturn.
Wearing your shoes for a few minutes at home is a great way to break in climbing shoes, but it’s also helpful because it gives you a chance to make sure you’re happy with the shoe (and maybe return it) before you take it climbing.
Once a shoe has been climbed in (even for a single route) it’s pretty obvious, and no retailer is going to give you a refund. If you’ve only worn the shoes on the couch at home for a few minutes though, then there’s a chance you’ll be able to return them if you aren’t happy with the fit.
Step 3: Go Climbing!
Now it’s time to climb. Take it easy for the first few routes, focusing on big footholds that flex and stretch your foot. You’ll still be “breaking in” your shoes for the first few sessions, so don’t worry if your shoe isn’t quite as honed as you’d like during your first day on the wall.
Beyond this, there’s no secret. Just climb and enjoy yourself. After three to five sessions, your shoes will be nice and warmed up.
Now let’s talk about a few common questions.
How much do climbing shoes stretch?
Climbing shoe stretch is dependent on the material of the shoe’s upper. Climbing shoes either use lined leather, unlined leather, synthetic, or a hybrid of leather and synthetic.
Unlined leather shoes will stretch the most, sometimes up to two full sizes. Lined leather shoes will stretch less, usually no more than a half size, and synthetic shoes usually won’t stretch much at all. If they do stretch, they certainly won’t go over half a size up.
NOTE: Climbing shoes stretch in terms of width and volume, not length. The rubber sole of your shoe will remain the same length no matter how much you wear the shoe. It’s the upper material that will stretch as the shoe is broken in.
How to stretch climbing shoes
In short, don’t. Climbing shoes aren’t made to be stretched artificially. Some of the tricks below can result in rubber delamination or other damage to your shoe, so try these at your own risk.
That said, if you made a big error and purchased a shoe that simply doesn’t fit (and it’s too late to return it), there are a few ways you can attempt to remedy this.
- Plastic Bags: If you can’t get your foot into your shoe normally, keep using the plastic bags trick we talked about above, and wear the shoe around the house for longer and longer periods (doing homework, playing video games, reading, watching TV, etc.) and see if it loosens up over time. Unlike the other three options, this method won’t run the risk of damaging your shoes.
- Hot Shower: Take a hot shower or bath with your shoes on for five minutes, then get out, and walk around in the shoes for a few minutes. When your shoes start to dry, take them off and stuff them with newspaper or socks to help them retain the shape until you next wear them climbing.
- Hair Dryer: Like the hot shower method, the heat from a hair dryer or heat gun can also help you stretch your shoes. This is my least favorite method, because you run a serious risk of melting the glue that holds your shoe rubber on. If you do choose to use a hair dryer, wear your shoes while doing it, instead of heating them up on their own. This will help the shoe stretch in a constructive way that molds to your foot, and let you judge how hot your shoes are getting (hopefully avoiding overheating them and melting your glue).
- Freezer: Take ziploc bags, stuff them inside your shoes, then fill the bags with water, seal them, and put the shoe in the freezer. As the water freezes and expands, it will stretch the shoe. This method is safer than the heat source ideas, because it doesn’t run the risk of melting your glue. However, because it’s a random bag of freezing water (and not your foot) that is stretching the shoe, the freezer method will expand your shoe in all directions, so it can result in an odd fit, with weird pockets of dead space. Be warned!
How long does it take to break in rock climbing shoes?
The time it takes for a shoe to break in depends on the shoe’s materials, size, and how often you climb in them. In general, new shoes take three to five climbing sessions to loosen up and mold to your feet. Shoes with leather uppers usually break in faster than those with synthetic.
How to Break in Climbing Shoes: Tips and Tricks
- Start with Short Sessions: Begin by wearing your new climbing shoes for short periods, either at home or during the beginning of your climbing sessions. Gradually increase the time as your feet and the shoes adjust to each other.
- Use Them on Easy Climbs: Before tackling your usual routes, use your new shoes on easier climbs. This can help the shoes stretch and mold to your feet without putting undue pressure on them. Small edges and holds also do little to loosen up a shoe.
- Wear Them Around the House: Wear your climbing shoes around the house to help them stretch and mold to your feet.
- Use Socks: Initially wearing thin socks with your climbing shoes can reduce hot spots and provide a bit more comfort as you break them in. As the shoes stretch and mold to your feet, you may find you no longer need the socks.
- Manual Stretching: For particularly tight spots, you can use your hands to gently stretch the material. Some climbers use objects like wooden shoe stretchers or horns to stretch specific areas.
- Be Patient: It can take five or six sessions for climbing shoes to be fully broken in, and shoes will sometimes continue to stretch further (slightly) over time. So if things don’t feel quite right after a day or two at the gym, don’t lose hope.
